Hawaii Surfing Articles

The History Of Hawaii Surfing

Although the exact moment when surfing was born is unknown, it is quite clear that the sport seen today originated from the centuries-old practice of wave-sliding, known as "he'enalu" in Hawaii. Waves of all shapes and sizes greeted the islands, which fostered the advancement of surfing sometime before the 15th century. The ocean and the act of surfing have always carried an air of mystery and meaning to the culture. Ancient surfers made it a habit to "listen" to the ocean, as well as pay attention to "her moods" to calculate tides, surf, and waves.

Throughout the history of Hawaiian surfing, different ranks and classes were attached to the tradition. The surfers with the highest reputation were called the chiefly class (or "ali'i"). They exercised the most dedication when it came to proficiency on the waves and board. The chiefly class surfers used their own set of prayers, wood, and board shapers. Various beaches were also attached to their rank, where only the ali'i were allowed to surf. The Hawaiians were quite serious about the rank of their surfers, meaning no one dared to intrude on the waves of the chiefly class. For some, it meant death or something very close to it.

Surfing in ancient Hawaii worked on a system of respect and status. Renowned surfers became subjects of celebration, as songs and dances were established in honor of their glory. They also received special privileges when in the presence of royal circles. Their status as a leader within the class of chiefs became contingent upon their display of strength and stamina. At that time, the sport of surfing was used as a challenge that kept chiefs in the physical condition needed to serve as a leader.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, written records stated that great kings (sometimes in their 50s and 60s) took to the water on long and narrow boards to enjoy the waves of the ocean with as much enthusiasm as their younger counterparts. Big Island chiefs, such as Karaimoku and Kakioena, were known to display a high level of skill, speed, style, and bravery.

By the time European exploration took place on the Hawaiian Islands, the overall culture of the people and the art of surfing suffered a great decline and by the turn of the 20th century, the Hawaiian Islands barely showed signs of the once-thriving tradition of surfing. On the south shore of Oahu, surfers mainly gathered at Kalehuawehe with a few participants heading to locations in Maui, Kauai and other islands. By this time, Honolulu was known as the largest city in Hawaii, but it was still quite rare to see surfing on the reefs.

Over the years, the code of surfing was left behind, as the sport now allowed all shapes, sizes, and ages to enjoy the waters – surfing in Hawaii no longer restricted the best waves to members of royalty. As missionaries descended upon the land; religion took a turn; and European and Hawaiian traditions and culture blended, forcing the Hawaiian way of life to exclude surfing as a large part of their ways.

Soon after, a rebirth of surfing throughout the Hawaiian Islands took place in the beginning of the 1900s, following the efforts of the Waikiki Swimming Club, which was comprised of Waikiki beach boys and enthusiasts, such as writer, Jack London. It was London's writings that helped spread the word of surfing in Hawaii, as more and more surfers began mastering the waves. The media attention that the beaches in Hawaii received lured surfers from California and other parts of the world to congregate in Waikiki and other parts of the islands.

A slow growth of the sport was seen between 1779 and 1960, but mounting media attention that took place over the next 40 years would catapult Hawaiian surfing, appearing in numerous published books, photographs, magazines, television shows, movies, and websites.

Today, many popular professional surfing competitions take place in Hawaii. The North Shore greets surfers at Haliewa, Pipeline and other well known spots. Sunset Beach waves reach 15 to 20 feet in height between September and April. Waimea Bay is a world-famous site that produces some of the biggest waves worldwide for surfing. Another big wave location in Hawaii, that produces some of the largest waves in the world is Jaws Beach, located in Maui. 

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